Over the years I’ve been able to see countless leather artifacts pass through the store. As much as I like opening a shipment of new leather pieces, I enjoy seeing the well-loved pieces in the hands of our community members even more so. I love the way leather transforms- how it changes in a person’s hands over time, and naturally takes in the environment of an individual’s journey. For me, leather care is a way for me to appreciate that journey, as well as the life and human craftsmanship that went into creating the piece.
Vegetable tanned leather can develop a natural patina over time. Conditioning can be a part of the process, providing an extra bit of protection and nourishment if desired. To support our community’s love of leather, we started carrying two leather conditioners: Renapur Leather Balsam and Huberd’s Shoe Grease. Both contain great quality natural ingredients for use on smooth leathers, but offer different strengths and qualities. For the sake of experimentation and to share the differences of these two products, we decided to test and compare them on our Alchemist covers. Before we jump in, let me share a bit about these conditioners.
About Renapur Leather Balsam
Renapur leather balsam is a leather conditioner made primarily of beeswax, jojoba oil, and carnauba wax. It nourishes and protects leather but is very gentle and forgiving. I first bought some at Traveler’s Company Nakameguro store in 2018 and have been using it to condition my TNs, reducing the visibility of scratches and marks and darkening the leather a shade. I like that the product is light and forgiving and gradually fades. If you forgo reapplication, in time you can enjoy the marks and character of your journey build up visibly as it did before treatment. Though keep in mind this product is meant for smooth leather, using it on a suede or nappy cover will alter the surface texture.
About Huberd’s Shoe Grease
Huberd’s Shoe Grease is a more heavy duty treatment with stronger waterproofing and conditioning. Huberd’s is made in the US with ingredients such as beeswax and pine tar, which both have anti-fungal and antibacterial properties. The pine tar gives it a strong smokey smell from the can, which I enjoy but may not be for everyone. After application, it left a lingering wood-shop smell which faded within a day. Huberd’s soaks deep into the leather, providing a longer lasting protection and altering the surface permanently. It will darken the leather while also adding a lovely shine. It’s a great option to treat items that will go through heavier use or brave the elements.
Application:
For this comparison I treated my Alchemist (Jibun Regular) in brown, using tape to mask three sections to compare the conditioners. I applied Renapur on the right (the front cover) and Huberds on the left (the back cover), and left the spine without treatment for comparison. I do not recommend doing this kind of masking as it leaves a visible edge to the treatment area. Read on to follow the steps I recommend for conditioning with either Renapur or Huberds.
Preparing the Leather:
1. First I removed the cover from my notebook and inserted a sheet of chipboard. The inner sleeve of the cover leaves a ridge that if left uneven would leave a mark while conditioning. The chipboard creates an even backing for conditioning the leather’s surface.
2. At this stage I test a small inconspicuous area to see how a product may change the leather, as every piece is unique and may react differently. If I do decide to skip this step, I mentally and emotionally prepare myself for the consequences. (As this was an experiment, I threw caution to the wind.)
Applying Renapur Leather Balsam:
1. I applied a small amount of Renapur with the included sponge, working it into the leather and making sure that I covered the entire area evenly. A little goes a long way, so you shouldn’t need very much.
2. I switched to a clean edge of the sponge and wiped again to remove any excess. The friction from the sponge also creates a bit of heat that helps the conditioner melt into the leather.
3. Waiting around an hour or so between drying, I applied a second and third layer in the same fashion. Doing multiple layers is optional, but it’s better to do multiple thin layers, using too much product can leave a greasy or uneven surface.
Applying Huberds Shoe Grease:
1. The Huberds I applied by hand, scooping out a small amount and working it into the leather. It will look very dark and greasy on application - but keep going and cover the entire area! It’s summer in LA so the conditioner was a melty consistency, but if it’s colder you may need to rub it between your hands to melt it first.
2. I applied in two more layers, waiting an hour or so between each. Again, the number of layers is up to personal preference (and patience).
3. After the final layer I let the conditioner soak in overnight before coming back with a clean cotton cloth to buff the surface. This removed any excess conditioner and brought out a lovely shine.
Results:
After treatment I compared the two conditioned sides for change in color, finish, and waterproofing. I tested the water resistance with a drop of water, which was applied, left for a couple seconds, wiped away. As a reference, the original leather has no waterproofing and soaked in immediately, leaving a visible mark on the leather once dry. Keep in mind that every leather piece is different and the way your specific leather companion changes may be different than what I’ve observed below.
Renapur
Color: Renapur subtly reduced the visibility of scuffs, while only subtly darkening the leather in color. If it weren’t for the untreated section I might not have been able to see the color difference. On colored or light colored leathers the difference will be more pronounced.
Finish: The leather maintained a similar matte finish as the original with no residual tackiness. (Nappy or suede-like textures will become smooth with treatment and will not revert to the original texture.)
Waterproofing: The water beaded, allowing for some of it to be wiped away. It left a mark, though not nearly as significant as on the untreated leather, likely fading in time.
Huberds
Color: The leather darkens dramatically. In the first layer I noticed it actually brought out the wrinkles and character in some areas, highlighting natural variation while toning down the scuffs from my everyday use. The contrast evened out a bit in the second and third layers.
Finish: The finish changed significantly after buffing, the surface took on a lovely satin shine. The cover felt hydrated without feeling oily.
Waterproofing: The water resistance was strongest with Huberds. The water applied beaded on the surface, and I was able to wipe most of it away. I could subtly see where the water had been, but expect it to fade over time.
Final Thoughts:
If you are looking to gently condition and even out the marks while minimizing color change, I would suggest Renapur Leather Balsam. I often use it for TN covers, light or colored leathers, and accessories.
If you are prioritizing lasting protection, water resistance, or want to darken and add a bit of a shine, I would recommend Huberd’s Shoe Grease. This is what I would reach for if I was treating bags, leather accents on tools, and (as the name suggests) leather shoes.
Leather care is a personal preference. With so many factors and individual preferences there’s no “right way” or “best way” to care for a piece. I enjoy the intention and meditative appreciation that goes into leather care, but there’s beauty in letting the patina develop through life and touch as well. Every leather piece ages uniquely with its user’s rhythm, creating a connection through joint experience and history. How you decide to use and care for it is just another part of its story with you.
Story and photos by: Emil
Bk Artifacts Featured:
- [Leather Care] Renapur Leather Balsam
- [Leather Care] Huberd's Shoe Grease
- [BK Original Cover] Alchemist (Jibun Regular)